Category: True East Sabre 48 Travels

Alaska Roundup with videos of ice, whales and bears.

We left the south end of Vancouver Island on May 3rd and returned Sep 16th, 135 days. We boated at far north as Skagway to the east and Glacier Bay to the west, a total distance of 6,000 nautical miles.

Most of the time it was slow (8 kts) cruising through an environment of trees, rocks and water…..then more trees, rocks and water. The weather was generally in the 50’s at night and 60’s during the day. High was in the 80’s low in the low 40’s. Water temperature ranged from low 40’s to high 60’s.

Coming from Miami, everything about Alaska is a contrast: the weather, the topography, the language, the food and most of all the very self reliant people.

This is the first year we have shot any video on our trips, but many things simply could not be captured with a still picture. Returning home we had a jumble of short segments and Dan had to learn how to edit this stuff. The short clips shown here are our first attempt, enjoy.

The first one covers three visits to Tracy’s Arm, between Petersburg and Juneau on the inside passage. We also visited Le Conte between Wrangle and Petersburg and Sawyer in Glacier Bay….this was the best.

WARNING, THESE VIDEOS WILL NOT PLAY ON AN IPAD.

We have seen whales all over the Northwest, from the San Juan Islands, primarily Orchas, to the many passages in Alaska. Fredrick Sound, just below Admiraly Island, provided the best area for Humpback whales….enjoy some the sights and sounds.

Alaska wes very dry this summer and the berry crop was so good many of the bears stayed up the mountains much later in the season this year. While our sighting along the shores were rare, we did get a chance to visit this Bear Preserve run by the US Forest Service, it is located at the bottom of Wrangle Narrows.

While we had planned on moving the boat to Europe for the summer of 2016, we have decided instead to go back to Alaska for one more season and continue to explore this rugged country.

After dropping off the Geros in Ketchikan, we decided to head back up to Juneau as we would the area between Wrangle (north of Ketchikan) and Juneau to be the most interesting. Our next guest, Bernd Meir was kind enough to change his plans and meet us there, he had already changed his departure at our request.

Once again we enjoyed Tracy Arm, the whales in Fredrick Sound, and the hot springs at Baranoff. More cinnamon buns at Meyers Chuck, a pass thru Ketchikan and a run across Dixon Entrance to Prince “rainy” Rupert.

From Rupert, we worked our way down thru the Broughtons (mainland side of British Columbia north of Vancouver Island). Here we will still above last years cruising area, but it was an area we traversed in the spring. On to Port Harvey where we met Carla for the start of her journey down thru Desolation Sound to Cambell River.

At the 5 star Dent Island resort we ran into the Irwin family on Woody’s Girl. Drew Irwin has been our contact at Philbrooks Boatyard since the restoration of Canim back in 2000. On to Cambell River were Marcia took off with Carla for Seattle and a couple of days of ‘girl time’. With Marcia back, we headed to back to Desolation Sound and worked our way down to Vancouver then Victoria for a little reacclimation to urban life.

True East is now safely back in Sidney, BC where Philbrooks once again has a list for the winter works. Over the summer we cruised some 6,000 nautical miles. We had three technical issues during this cruise, not of which stopped our adventures and each of which was taken care of in a day.

While Dan would lobby for a little warmer weather, we did love this cruise. The people, the natural beauty, and the creatures make it so magical that we have decided to go back for another cruising season in 2016, Europe will just have to wait.

Click on the photo to see the album of this trip.

With Kristi and Chris off to Africa after the wedding, Dan and Marcia return to Sitka. There we join Cooper has been boat and dog sitting while we headed to the east coast. With just a few stops at Kalanin and Tenakee, we returned to Juneau to drop off Cooper.

With about a week before the Howes were to join in Juneau, we decided to head down Icy Straights to see if we could get a permit into Glacier Bay. On route we stopped at Elfin Cove and Pelican, both ‘boardwalk’ communities. Misunderstanding the rules, we headed for Barlett’s Cove in Glacier Bay thinking we could apply for perimit there….wrong. Dan got a citation and fine for entering Glacier Bay without a permit…although we were granted a two day permit at the same time. Our experience in Glacier Bay was “not worth it” with the distances and regulations.

Back to Juneau for a week with Ed and Kim. Spectacular is the best description…glaciers, whales, hot springs, and great weather. Arriving in Wrangle, we dropped off the Howes and picked up Tim, Kelly and Clair (Tim is one of Marcia’s many brothers}. We started the first day with a jet boat to Anan Bear Preserves where we had a great set of sightings. Not enough we took another boat the same day up the Stikene River to a glacier. While it was a long day, it was the highlight of a week of drizzling weather. Once again we stopped at Kasaan, one our favorite ‘boardwalk’ communities.

At Kentchikan, we changed crew again. Thankfully, we have a watermaker and a great washer and dryer on board. The K’s left us and Mike and Malli Gero were piped aboard with the traditional bottle of champagne. The Gero had planned to visit the Haida Gwaii Canadian National Park after their time with us. Their jumping off point would be Prince Rupert; however, our experience indicated we would rather go north from Ketchikan to Juneau, than south to Rupert…once more travel plans change.

Turned out to be a good bet. The weather cleared and we had a repeat of our week with the Howes except in reverse order. While the cruise ships stay on the inside passage from Ketchikan to Juneau, we now take a more western route along the east side of Prince of Whales Island, up thru Rocky Pass on Kupreanof Island, along the east side of Baranoff, then up Fredricks Sound. Back in Juneau where the cruise ship types are known to ask the local merchants if they ‘take American money’…..kind of like Sarah saying everyone should speak American.

Click on the photo to see the album of this trip

Leaving Ketchikan, on route to Juneau our first stop was a Wrangle. Here we took a jet boat tour up to Le Conte Glacier…several miles of ice pack on the way into the glacier with seals berthing on the safety of the floating ice.

On to Petersburg with a stop at the Sandborne Canal in the Tongass National Forest. We then arrived at Tracy Arm with it’s glaciers on a beautiful clear and warm day. In the north arm we were clear right to the face of the glacier, in the south arm hundred of seal birthed on the floating ice pack.

We both read James Mitchner’s Alaska while cruising along. Stopping in Taku Harbor was very special at is was the scene of his discussion of salmon fishing and canning in Alaska at the turn of the last century. We arrived in Juneau on June 10th and it would become our locus for the next ten days. First we went north up the Lynn Canal to Haines and Skagway. Haines is where the Alaskan Highway ferry from Washington State first connects with the Alaskan highways. A fabulous community that has rejected the cruise ships and is filled with all sorts of interesting folks we had the opportunity to spend time with. Fireweed Cafe provided one our best meals on the trip. At Skagway, we took the train up the gold rush trail to the Yukon.

Returning to Juneau, we left the boat and flew to Anchorage where we then took the eight hour train ride to Denali National Park, the location of 20,000 foot Mt. McKinley. From our lodge, we explored the area and took a twelve hour bus ride into the park up to Kantishna, another gold rush community. While they say the mountain is only visible about 20% of the time, we lucked out with a crystal clear 80 degree day for our visit.

Back to Juneau and on to Sitka, the original Russian capital of Alaska. On route we stopped at Tenakee Springs, along with Kasaan and Haines this was one of our favorite communities. We arrived at Sitka just before the opening of the offshore King Salmon season. Hundreds of boat were getting ready with provisions, fueling and icing for the most important few days of the fishing season.

We were joined in Sitka by the Yuan family for a long weekend. On arrival we immediately headed out for a quite anchorage in Leesoffskaia Bay. Luke, Deanne and Sara all insisted on sleeping on deck during the entire stay. Howard was sensible enough to stay inside. Sea otters, eagles, seals, deer, whales and Sara’s claim to seeing a bear. A nice soak in the tubs at Goddard Hot Springs before returning to Sitka. One day of getting the boat ready for the next leg including fueling and an oil change. Cooper Raphael arrived on to boat and dog sit while we headed off to the Kristi and Chris wedding in New Jersey.

Kristi and Chris met in New Hampshire twenty years ago on 4th of July, that explains a 4th of July wedding. A great gathering of friends and family to celebrate this union. From the wedding they were off to Tanzania for a honeymoon and Marcia and Dan returned to Alaska.

Click on the photo to see the album of this trip

We started on May 3rd at the south end of Vancouver Island, BC where True East has wintered over at Van Isle Marina and had some new outfitting by Philbrooks Boatyard. Philbrooks did the restoration of Canim for Dan back in 2001.

The first two weeks we moved up the east coast of Vancouver Island about 300 nautical miles to Port Hardy at the north end of the island. Before crossing Queen Charlotte Sound, we spent a couple of days at the God’s Pocket cold water diving resort, great spot. 60 miles of across the Sound brought us to the mainland in British Columbia and the start of the ‘inside passage.’ Great stops along the way as we headed north. Dawson’s Landing, a floating community. Calvert Island where we could walk to the sandy beaches of the west coast of the island. Ocean Falls where the population dropped from 5,000 to 28 when the pulp mill closed. Eucott Hot Springs where we had a great natural spring to ourselves under the snowy peaks. On to Shearwater Resort for a fuel and provisioning stop. Kynoch Inlet and Windy Bay in Fjordland National Park with spectacular scenery. Kitsaway and Lowe Inlet on route to Prince Rupert where we stayed for a couple of days. The last segment of this part of the summer took us to Ketchikan where we were based for a couple of weeks.

From our Ketchikan base, we discovered Kasaan on Prince of Wales Island. A very small community of rugged people in a beautiful environment. Dave Prigmore joined us in Ketchikan for a trip up thru Misty Fjords National Park that included several swims in the 67 degree Alaskan water.

Click on the photo to see the album of this trip

The Broughtons are very different from the San Juan and Gulf Islands and Desolation Sound. This is generally uninhabited First Nations country with a few logging camps and small marinas with minimal supplies.

The southeastern corner is a bit like Maine or the North Channel of Lake Huron (without lobster pots and people). The North side is a bit like Newfoundland with trees. Everywhere there are small coves and spots to tuck in. The boaters up here are generally experienced in the area having returned many times and often well known to each other, BYO cocktails on the dock at 5pm is standard.

Our first night was a Lagoon Bay where the boaters joined Jean, the owner for a “sit down” for cocktails and potluck. Not Marcia’s choice for a venue. The next day we had a wonderful cruise to Blackfish Sound and spent the night at Pierre’s Echo Bay. Paul, George, Bob and Warren from Port Angeles supplied the fresh salmon for dinner while we hosted the affair.

Moving northeast, we stopped at Jennis Bay where they were clearing many, many tons of old logging equipment from the forest. Sullivan Bay is a floating village with floats for street, dog parks, library, general store, restaurant and about 25 homes. The homes are major imports and include heliports on the roof! On to Kwatsi Bay and more 5 o’clock cocktails. At Port Harvey we met again with a number of cruisers we had seen along the way. At Blind Channel, we had a great hike to the 800 year old cedar tree.

The Dent Island Lodge is like finding one of the old Rock Resorts, very classy and very pricy. This area of the islands has many upscale fishing camps. By now we are heading back down out of the Broughtons following the smaller passages like the Hole in the Wall.

With the weather changing, we tuck into Taku Marina for a few days to ride out the winds. To our delight we again run into Keith on Arro and share a few meals. Moving back down to Nanaimo we pass thru Sechelt Rapids and cross over the Straights.

At Nanaimo, Kristi joins us for the next five days as we head down thru the Gulf Islands and back to Sidney. Wallace Island is our first stop. Great place with small anchorages, hiking trails and history of the couple who developed a resort here in the 1940’s. After lunch in Ganges we made the mistake of anchoring at Portland Island, the wakes from the passing ferries made for an uncomfortable night.

After a stop at Saturna Island, again great hikes, we returned to Vancouver Island with a stop at Victoria overnight. The next day we anchored up near Buchart Gardens where we got in an afternoon visit. Next morning it was back to Sidney to drop off Kristi so she could catch here flight. After Kristi departed, Dan made arrangements for winter storage for True East with Van Isle Marina and some winter boat work with Philbrooks.

Tony Prigmore arrived the next day for a long weekend of cruising in the Gulf Islands. Here we pretty much repeated our experience with Kristi, adding a stop at the winery on Saturna Island where we encountered wild goats butting heads. A great visit with time to discuss some potential plans for the Prigmore Family Foundation.

After Tony’s departure, it’s about time to wind things down for the season. Dan goes to Seattle to get the Smart car while Marcia starts to prepare the boat for winter. As the weather lifts, we head out for a few more cruising days in the Gulf Islands.

Click on the photo to see the album of this trip.

The first of August is Fleet Week in Seattle with lots of Navy including the Blue Angels and a major air show. At Bell Harbor downtown, we are in the heart of it with two Navy ships along side us. We spent an evening with several young offices having a beer on the boat, listened to their dreams and added a few experiences of our one.

Wanting to get off the dock and knowing we would have to return one more time for a doctor’s appointment, we headed over to Bainbridge Island to have lunch with one of Dan’s fraternity brothers who had seen once in 50 years. What a magnificent garden they have with Meredith guiding the project while Don is busy with his classic racecars. On to Port Ludlow, where we anchored up in a small cove and talked about cruising to Mexico with our boat neighbors. The next night finds us anchored at Ft Flagler on Merristone Island, site of the Pig War between the Americans and the Brits.

A quick return to Shilshole Bay in Seattle to for provisioning and a determination that Dan will see no more doctors. Next stop is Port Townsend on the American side of Juan de Fuca Straights where we fuel up and get ready for the crossing into British Columbia.

Clearing into to Victoria, we head for the docks at the base of the Empress Hotel in the center of the city. A few days of wandering the city enjoying the shops and restaurants. The Victoria museum had a wonderful exhibit on the Vikings including an Imax movie.

On to Buchart Gardens where we anchored up in the cove and took the tender to their docks for both a day and evening visit. Gardens not to be missed if you are ever in this area.

On to Van Isle Marina and Philbrooks Boatyard in Sydney. This is where Dan had Canim restored and greetings were exchanged with some of the crew from that job and a few sons of crewmembers. A few minor repairs and modifications to True East and we are off for the Campbell River with an overnight on the docks in Nanaimo.

Discovery Harbour at Campbell River includes a marina, retail and restaurant complex developed an operated by the First Nations people in this area, first class.

Tim, Kelly and Claire Kisielnicki join us at Campbell River via seaplane and we head out for Desolation sound on the mainland side of the channel. In Theodosius Bay we are the only boat and take advantage of the logging road to walk Lola and collect blackberries.

The next day we casually motored around the island, inlets and channels of the area and anchor in Roscoe Bay for the night. What a night it is as Richard joins us for dinner and brings his guitar and a great songbook. A few duets with Claire are a highlight under the stars. Water temperature in this area gets into the 70’s so swimming is definitely in order. Tim forages for oysters….tasty! The next day we motored on to Teakerne Arm and enjoyed Cassel Falls and a hike up to the lake for a swim. The night was spent at anchor in Squirrel Cove where we again say the Rooses (3^rd time in 50 years).

Next was a circumnavigation of Cortez Island with a stop to anchor up at Gorge Harbour. Finally, it was back to Discovery Marina to drop of Tim, Kelly and Claire. But there was one last adventure, snorkeling with the salmon in the Campbell River. With a guide in full wet suits, the Kisielnicki’s floated down the river with a few hundred thousand pink salmon.

The next day, Dan and Marcia head north thru Seymour Narrows up in the Broughton’s, a set of islands and inlet’s above Desolation and below Queen Charlotte Sounds, for a couple of days. First night we anchored at Shoal Harbour and did a hike (for Dan a half hike) up to the old mine. Drinks with other boaters at the pub, great spot. Next day we cruised up Butte Inlet with glacier topped 6,000 ft peaks, clearly receding over the recent years. Anchored up at Von Dolop Bay for the night. After a stop at Rebecca Spit for a long walk, we returned to Discovery Bay for  the Farrington’s to join us for 5 days.

Off the dock about noon, an attempt at some fishing on route, and on to Squirrel Cove for the night. Along the way, one engine shut down due hydraulic leak….hum? After morning investigation of mechanical issue, decide to carry on with one engine and head off to Pendrel Sound. The owner of 1922 classic yacht Arro, Keith joins us for dinner and great conversation. Next day, we cruise up Toba Inlet and anchor in Prideaux Haven, one of the areas best spots. On the way back to Discovery Bay, we stop at Lund for lunch at the hotel.

The 29^th is a rain day, no snorkeling with salmon but a day to get the hydraulics fixed…just an “O” ring thankfully. Carl and Christine head back to Portland while we fuel up and provision for next months adventure.

Click on the photo to see the album of this trip.