Category: Travel 2014

The Broughtons are very different from the San Juan and Gulf Islands and Desolation Sound. This is generally uninhabited First Nations country with a few logging camps and small marinas with minimal supplies.

The southeastern corner is a bit like Maine or the North Channel of Lake Huron (without lobster pots and people). The North side is a bit like Newfoundland with trees. Everywhere there are small coves and spots to tuck in. The boaters up here are generally experienced in the area having returned many times and often well known to each other, BYO cocktails on the dock at 5pm is standard.

Our first night was a Lagoon Bay where the boaters joined Jean, the owner for a “sit down” for cocktails and potluck. Not Marcia’s choice for a venue. The next day we had a wonderful cruise to Blackfish Sound and spent the night at Pierre’s Echo Bay. Paul, George, Bob and Warren from Port Angeles supplied the fresh salmon for dinner while we hosted the affair.

Moving northeast, we stopped at Jennis Bay where they were clearing many, many tons of old logging equipment from the forest. Sullivan Bay is a floating village with floats for street, dog parks, library, general store, restaurant and about 25 homes. The homes are major imports and include heliports on the roof! On to Kwatsi Bay and more 5 o’clock cocktails. At Port Harvey we met again with a number of cruisers we had seen along the way. At Blind Channel, we had a great hike to the 800 year old cedar tree.

The Dent Island Lodge is like finding one of the old Rock Resorts, very classy and very pricy. This area of the islands has many upscale fishing camps. By now we are heading back down out of the Broughtons following the smaller passages like the Hole in the Wall.

With the weather changing, we tuck into Taku Marina for a few days to ride out the winds. To our delight we again run into Keith on Arro and share a few meals. Moving back down to Nanaimo we pass thru Sechelt Rapids and cross over the Straights.

At Nanaimo, Kristi joins us for the next five days as we head down thru the Gulf Islands and back to Sidney. Wallace Island is our first stop. Great place with small anchorages, hiking trails and history of the couple who developed a resort here in the 1940’s. After lunch in Ganges we made the mistake of anchoring at Portland Island, the wakes from the passing ferries made for an uncomfortable night.

After a stop at Saturna Island, again great hikes, we returned to Vancouver Island with a stop at Victoria overnight. The next day we anchored up near Buchart Gardens where we got in an afternoon visit. Next morning it was back to Sidney to drop off Kristi so she could catch here flight. After Kristi departed, Dan made arrangements for winter storage for True East with Van Isle Marina and some winter boat work with Philbrooks.

Tony Prigmore arrived the next day for a long weekend of cruising in the Gulf Islands. Here we pretty much repeated our experience with Kristi, adding a stop at the winery on Saturna Island where we encountered wild goats butting heads. A great visit with time to discuss some potential plans for the Prigmore Family Foundation.

After Tony’s departure, it’s about time to wind things down for the season. Dan goes to Seattle to get the Smart car while Marcia starts to prepare the boat for winter. As the weather lifts, we head out for a few more cruising days in the Gulf Islands.

Click on the photo to see the album of this trip.

The first of August is Fleet Week in Seattle with lots of Navy including the Blue Angels and a major air show. At Bell Harbor downtown, we are in the heart of it with two Navy ships along side us. We spent an evening with several young offices having a beer on the boat, listened to their dreams and added a few experiences of our one.

Wanting to get off the dock and knowing we would have to return one more time for a doctor’s appointment, we headed over to Bainbridge Island to have lunch with one of Dan’s fraternity brothers who had seen once in 50 years. What a magnificent garden they have with Meredith guiding the project while Don is busy with his classic racecars. On to Port Ludlow, where we anchored up in a small cove and talked about cruising to Mexico with our boat neighbors. The next night finds us anchored at Ft Flagler on Merristone Island, site of the Pig War between the Americans and the Brits.

A quick return to Shilshole Bay in Seattle to for provisioning and a determination that Dan will see no more doctors. Next stop is Port Townsend on the American side of Juan de Fuca Straights where we fuel up and get ready for the crossing into British Columbia.

Clearing into to Victoria, we head for the docks at the base of the Empress Hotel in the center of the city. A few days of wandering the city enjoying the shops and restaurants. The Victoria museum had a wonderful exhibit on the Vikings including an Imax movie.

On to Buchart Gardens where we anchored up in the cove and took the tender to their docks for both a day and evening visit. Gardens not to be missed if you are ever in this area.

On to Van Isle Marina and Philbrooks Boatyard in Sydney. This is where Dan had Canim restored and greetings were exchanged with some of the crew from that job and a few sons of crewmembers. A few minor repairs and modifications to True East and we are off for the Campbell River with an overnight on the docks in Nanaimo.

Discovery Harbour at Campbell River includes a marina, retail and restaurant complex developed an operated by the First Nations people in this area, first class.

Tim, Kelly and Claire Kisielnicki join us at Campbell River via seaplane and we head out for Desolation sound on the mainland side of the channel. In Theodosius Bay we are the only boat and take advantage of the logging road to walk Lola and collect blackberries.

The next day we casually motored around the island, inlets and channels of the area and anchor in Roscoe Bay for the night. What a night it is as Richard joins us for dinner and brings his guitar and a great songbook. A few duets with Claire are a highlight under the stars. Water temperature in this area gets into the 70’s so swimming is definitely in order. Tim forages for oysters….tasty! The next day we motored on to Teakerne Arm and enjoyed Cassel Falls and a hike up to the lake for a swim. The night was spent at anchor in Squirrel Cove where we again say the Rooses (3^rd time in 50 years).

Next was a circumnavigation of Cortez Island with a stop to anchor up at Gorge Harbour. Finally, it was back to Discovery Marina to drop of Tim, Kelly and Claire. But there was one last adventure, snorkeling with the salmon in the Campbell River. With a guide in full wet suits, the Kisielnicki’s floated down the river with a few hundred thousand pink salmon.

The next day, Dan and Marcia head north thru Seymour Narrows up in the Broughton’s, a set of islands and inlet’s above Desolation and below Queen Charlotte Sounds, for a couple of days. First night we anchored at Shoal Harbour and did a hike (for Dan a half hike) up to the old mine. Drinks with other boaters at the pub, great spot. Next day we cruised up Butte Inlet with glacier topped 6,000 ft peaks, clearly receding over the recent years. Anchored up at Von Dolop Bay for the night. After a stop at Rebecca Spit for a long walk, we returned to Discovery Bay for  the Farrington’s to join us for 5 days.

Off the dock about noon, an attempt at some fishing on route, and on to Squirrel Cove for the night. Along the way, one engine shut down due hydraulic leak….hum? After morning investigation of mechanical issue, decide to carry on with one engine and head off to Pendrel Sound. The owner of 1922 classic yacht Arro, Keith joins us for dinner and great conversation. Next day, we cruise up Toba Inlet and anchor in Prideaux Haven, one of the areas best spots. On the way back to Discovery Bay, we stop at Lund for lunch at the hotel.

The 29^th is a rain day, no snorkeling with salmon but a day to get the hydraulics fixed…just an “O” ring thankfully. Carl and Christine head back to Portland while we fuel up and provision for next months adventure.

Click on the photo to see the album of this trip.

After a wonderful July 4^th weekend with Howard Yuan and family, we headed back to Seattle with the hope of getting Dan’s ‘pain in the ass’ addressed.

While America may have the best medical care in the world, it sure can be tough to find it when traveling. ‘Can not see you without a referral”, ‘next available appointment is in four weeks’, and on and on. In desperation, Dan goes to the emergency room at local hospital and is referred to Dr. Watts. This leads to seeing three more doctors over coming weeks, MRI’s and the like. A good think Dan did not have to sit down for a couple of months. Despite this uncomfort, we have a great time.

While in Seattle we had a great visit with Treena (Kristi college roommate) her husband and kids.

From downtown Seattle, we went around to Lake Union and Lake Washington….home of The Boy’s in the Boat story. A visit to the Museun of History and Industry and the Wooden Boat Center….a cruise by Bill Gates house and a lunch stop in Kirkland. Alexander Bay provided a wonderful anchorage for a night on the lake.

It’s then down Pudget Sound to Gig Harbor to pick up our friend Cooper who will cruise with us for about two weeks. On our way back up North, we stopped by Port Orchard encountering the annual Chris Craft Rendevous. This area certainly has the greatest concentration of cruising Chris Crafts we have ever seen, although not many runabouts. In Bremerton we passed an enormous Navy shipyard, one of many in Puget Sound.

We stopped at Poulsbo and Couperville en route to our the San Juan Islands. At Rosario Resort we enjoyed a great dinner and wonderful walks. Sucia Island is home to one of the many Marine Parks in Washington State. Coming from New England, Dan had no idea of how extensive the state park systems are in the rest of the country. Unlike New England where almost all of the great anchorages are filled with private moorings and lobster boats here there are State Parks everywhere on land and sea.

From the San Juan Islands, we passed thru the Canadian Gulf Islands (with their Provincial Marine Parks) en route to Vancouver. Stopping at Pender Island to clear Canadian Customs, after Dan gives the registration number of the boat over the phone, he was greeted with ‘Is this George and is Marcia with you?” His reply of course was “Yes and Lola too!”. Homeland Security could learn a few things from the Canadians. First a stop at Granville Market, then around to Coal Harbour where we tied up for a couple of days to enjoy the city. A day cruise took us up Indian Arm to the Silver and Great Falls, then back to the City before heading up to Howe Sound where we were fortunate enough to have our only encounter with orca killer whales.. Union Steamship Marina was a favorite stop.

Headed back to Gig Harbor, we stopped at Roche Harbor to clear US customs. One more stop at Garrison Bay, site of the famous Pig War with the Brits before returning to Gig Harbor.

After dropping Cooper off, we headed back to Tacoma for an overnight with a great Thai dinner. One stop at Penrose Point State Park for a night and we arrive in Olympia. Here we meet Marcia’s brother Steve, his wife Ann, brother in law Tom and his wife Ruth for a wonderful day cruise with a stop at Hope Island State Park.

A couple of days of cruising the lower Puget Sound and we have this area pretty well covered. It’s back to Seattle for a few minor repairs to the boat, some more doctor visits for Dan and having some Navy guests at our marina during Fleet Week.

Click on the photo to see the album of this trip.

After a safe passage up the Pacific Coast in the Straights of San Juan Defuca, we arrived in Nea Bay just around the corner from Cape Flattery. This is an reservation town with a great Museum based on the discovery of pre-European village previously buried by a mud slip and uncovered during a major storm in the 1970’s. On to the charming town of Port Townsend where Dan is starting to deal with a severe pain in the butt…his own. This will be a recurring problem over the coming weeks for Dan. One of the local artists who has sailed the south pacific joins us for dinner on the boat.

On to Anacordes where Mike, Dan and Alex Gero will join us for a few days of cruising in the San Juan Islands. Anchoring up the the famous Roche Harbor, we are underwhelmed and Lola finds the place very unfriendly. Down the east coast of San Juan island looking for Orca whales, the are apparently everywhere we are not. Back to Anacordes to drop off Alex and Dan, the out again with Michael for a stop in Rosario and the great resort there. The great house reminds us of Viscaya in Miami with silent movies accompanied by the house organ.

After dropping Mike in Anacordes, we head out for a a couple of days anchored up a Sucia Island where we have dinner with Wayne and Erin who have the second Sabre we have seen up here. After this great spot we move on to Stuart Island, then a night in Friday Harbor. It seems the best we can expect this time of year are half days of summer, a warm afternoon if your lucky. Next comes Lopez Island with an anchorage at Spencer Spit.

Time to due some provisioning, fill the fuel and water, pump out the waste and visit the local Sabre dealer in Bellingham. After a couple of days on the dock, we are ready to explore some more. Off to cute town of Coupville on Whitby Island with another stop in Langley before heading down to Seattle.

Dan’s butt problems get serious enough to seek medical help that finally arrives in the form of Dr. James Watts at Swedish Ballard…it’s not serious, a major inflammation to be treated with drugs; however, a reminder of aging. As Car2go members in Miami, we are able to access the fleet here for shopping and sightseeing.

Howard Yuan along with Luke and Sarah join us in Seattle for a long July 4th weekend, what a pleasure to get to spent some time with this gang. We take a leisurely cruise down to Tacoma with a chance to visit the Glass Museum and bridge. We are impressed with the ongoing works to rebuild this small city. Off the dock on the 5th, we head over to Vashon Island and anchor up and enjoy kayaking and hiking. On the way back to Seattle, we drop the Yuan’s a Des Moines while Dan and Marcia head back to the city for another doctor visit and more sightseeing.

Summer arrived right on schedule July 1st and finally the sweat shirt is put away and shorts come out.

Clink on the upper photo to see the lower Pudget and the lower photo to see the San Juan Island albums of this trip

At Kennewick we say goodbye to Peter and Diane who drive the GMC and the now dead Smart Car to Seattle where the vechiles will spend the summer. One last dinner with Jeannie and Phil and we head down river to the Pacific Ocean.

The first three days take up thru the McNarly, John Day and Dalles locks, each about 100’ rise and void of any cruising boats like ours.

At the intersect of the Hood River, we enter the narrow part of the river with it’s towering hillsides. The town of Hood River becomes our base for a few days while we rent a car and drive to Mt Hood having lunch at the wonderful Timberline Lodge. This area is renown for its outdoor sports, windsurfing, cycling, climbing, skiing, etc….lots of chiropractors.

After a very rough ride out of Hood River (35kt winds against a 5kt current), we headed down to Cascade Lock and the Bridge of the Gods…not sure how it got the name. On to the Bonneville Dam and another 100’ lock.

After six days on the Columbia River, we arrived in Portland for a four-day stay visiting friends and enjoying the city and it’s wonderful parks. Dan get’s a chance to catch up with Carl Farrington, a Williston classmate for dinner and brunch cruise up the Willamette River.

Down river again with a stop in Kalama were we again rented a car and this time visited Mt. St. Helens. The devastation is still an awesome sight….trying to imagine a 300 mile/hr wind!.

We first discovered the Brew Express coffee maker when it came standard on our Legacy boat. We loved it so much we now have four of them. In Kalama we got a chance to visit the company and it’s owner Bill Spencer.

Last stop on the Columbia River is Astoria, primarily a lumber and fishing town.

The entrance to the Columbia River from the Pacific Ocean is known as the ‘Portland Bar’ and is a major training center for Coast Guard personnel. On the out edge of the bar the ocean swells up from hundreds of feet deep onto a wide and shallow bank about 40 feet deep. The big ocean swells build on this bar and are met by the outflow of the river….potentially one very nasty scene.

We had waited a couple of days for a dead calm winds on an ebb tide, at 5am we left the dock following an experienced skipper on a 100’ Ocean Alexander. Even then, we had a five-foot swell as we moved off the bar about an hour later and headed north up the coast.

Slowed by fog, fishing boats and crab traps we arrived at Neah Bay in the Straight of Juan De Fuca about 2pm without incident.

All told, this leg of our journeys is not one we would repeat in a boat. They make cars and planes for visiting this area.

Click on the photo to see the album of this trip

We have already taken ten days to tour the Olympic Penninsula in True West when True East arrives in Pasco, WA on the Columbia River. Jeanne & Phil provide local hospitality while Peter and Diane Mahoney fly in for extra help.

After unloading True East and getting her ‘put back together’ after the 2,800 mile road trip, we head up the Snake River into Idaho with Peter and Diane.

On arrival at Clarkson, we signed up for a wonderful jet boat tour up the wilder Snake into Hell’s Canyon.

Five days later we are back in Pasco to off load the tender which travelled separately from Wyoming due to inexplicable regulations.

Click on the photo to see the album of this trip