The original delivery window for our boat in Marmaris was between 10 and 31 May, by the time we reached Cappadocia, it was clear it would be the later part of the month. With a couple of week available, we decided on take a road trip that ended up over a 1,000 miles through this wonderful and diverse country.
At dinner with the owner the Taskonakilar Hotel in Cappadocia, Togla gave us a list of his favorite boutique hotels. What a gift this turned out to be. On our way to Konya we stopped at the best preserved Sultanhani, a stopover on the Silk Road….three days of shelter and food for travelers of old, but difficult to find lunch.
Konya, sixth largest city, turned out to be a surprise in many ways after the touristic Cappadocia. This is a heartland industrial city, religiously conservative and a strong supporter of Erdogan….also hard to get any alcohol. We were there for the first election, with Erdogan in the lead, the city was in celebration. This is the home of whirling dervishes and founder Rumi.
From Konya is was up in the mountains to Ormona. After being lead to a back street in this small mountain village, we finally found the restaurant and lodge with another Togla as our host. He returned to his family village after a successful career in Istanbul to open this facility. The architecture of this town is unique in its combination of wood and stone, called button houses. With the art of building these building almost gone, we organized a set of internships for carpenters, mason and ironworkers and the village is being restored and rebuilt a building a time….charming.
Before we descended the mountains down to the coast, we stopped at a cave system filled with water recommended by Togla. In Anatalya, a city of 2.5 million, we stayed at another small family run boutique hotel in the city. Much wandering around the city with its thousands of small shops and restaurants…always spotless and always feeling very safe. Dan realized he lost his passport somewhere. The owner of our hotel was kind enough to work with him to get an official police report of the loss…interesting ordeal. Wonderful waterfront with aquarium and Hadrian’s Gate.
Up into the mountains again, and little did we know that at the end of the dirt road would be this small lodge run by one of Turkiye’s best know chefs. I think we were the only guests who did not come for the food. As with all of our proprietors, there was fear Erdogan would be reelected in the final round. Great meal with a couple of young lawyers who fretted about staying or leaving Turkiye.
Down the mountains to the coast at Kas where the road along the shore reminds one of the Pacific Highway along Big Sur. Arriving at our hotel, we realized our poor choice and decided to move on, what a good move as we ended up in Turvana in another family boutique hotel overlooking the harbor. For 100 lira, $5 we took the ferry into town and wondered this delightful little town.
Once again, we headed up into the mountains and when over the hill, we stopped at Fethiye for lunch and then on to Marmaris where the boat would be delivered. This is a major boating capital with dozens of chandleries, systems dealers and mechanics. We stayed on the waterfront in the old town with its many restaurants, gullets and day boats galore. We visited with Charlie One, our customs agent and arranged for his services. Checked into the marina to arrange dockage, etc. Dan took an all day round trip to Ismir to arrange for a new passport at the US Counsulate.
We still had time before the boat arrived, so we went up to the ancient city of Herakles with its magnificent roman amphitheater and the thermal baths of Pamukkale, amazing sight. After a night there, we went on to Kusadasi for the night and stayed at the charming Rusis Hotel. The next day was a visit to the ancient city of Ephesus, well worth the visit. At Kusadasi we visited the marina we planned to stay at on True East as we moved north up the coast. It was another of Setur’s very high quality facilities.
Finally back to Marmaris to meed FW Space and True East.
Click on the photo to see the album of this trip